Fall 2015, I was still obsessed and enthralled with the beauty of surfing and the sea, and everything that happens with them. Summer had ended, but I hadn’t noticed.
That’s Kevin, with Josh’s family heirloom board, also known as the kook pride.
This was a memorable day for me. It was mid week in early October, and my first encounter with a Fall storm swell. Joaquin was it’s name. Arriving at B67 was like a scene from a 70s surf film shot in California, cars with boards hanging out pulled up to the boardwalk, parking wherever they want, nearly everyone coming and going was there to surf.
The waves were scary for me, the biggest I’d seen in person at the time, but Kevin had said to me something like, “you’ve been skateboarding all your life, you’ve taken some slams, you can hold your breath for 5 seconds.” So took some slams I did, and I found out holding your breath for 5 seconds can be kind of hard when you’re already out of breath.
Someone’s in there.
This looks like it could hurt.
But this looks fun.
This is Andreea Waters. She recently had a book published called Surf NYC.
I didn’t know New York waves could focus your board.